Router Table Base

The base for this router table is designed so that the front legs fold in and the tabletop tilts down. This is a nice feature if storage space is a concern. The legs should be built from a relatively solid wood.

We selected Southern Yellow Pine for its low price and relative durability. The material we used came from 2" x 10" framing lumber available at most "home centers" such as Home Depot and Lowes.

If you don't need a folding table you can modify the plans so the base is permanently attached to the table top. Another option is to build an enclosed base. Building an enclosed base can help control dust and noise.

The four legs are made by gluing two 1 ½" x 3" x 36" boards together to make a post that measures 3" x 3" x 36". To ensure a strong bond, make sure both pieces are clean and free of dust and oils before gluing. Clean with denatured alcohol if necessary to remove excess sawdust

After the legs have dried, trim them down to 34" long. Make sure the ends are cut square.

Cut two cross-supports for the back – 1 ½" x 3" x 30"

Cut four cross-supports for the sides – 1 ½" x 3" x 12 ¾"

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Sand and smooth all of the surfaces of both the legs and the cross supports. As you can see in the picture to the right, we first planed the legs and then sanded them. The planer is useful for removing material fast; a belt sander would work as well. Use a finishing sander to smooth out the legs.

Sanding the Legs

The next step is to drill and insert dowel rods into the end of each cross support.

This is done because screws that are tightened into end-grain tend to pull out easier than screws fastened across the grain. By fastening the screw through the end-grain, and into the dowel, we form a tighter joint. The dowels should be made from ¾" diameter hardwood.

1) Drill a hole 1 ½" from the edge to the hole's center.

2) Cut the dowels slightly longer than the width of the board, coat with glue, and pound into place.

Note: The side supports should have a dowel inserted into only one end; the back supports have one on each end.

3) After the dowels dry, use a flush cut saw to trim off the edges.

Drill the Hole

Trimming the Dowels

Trimmed Flush

The size of the holes drilled for the legs will depend on the size of the lag screws and washers. We purchased sixteen ¼" x 6" lag screws and sixteen ¼" washers.

Using a Forstner bit, drill a hole large enough to sink the washer and the head of the lag screw below the surface.

Note: Each cross support should have two lag screws fastened on EACH END. Please refer to the diagram at the right for drill positioning.

After drilling the holes with the Forstner bit drill a hole through the center using a bit that is slightly larger than the diameter of the lag screw (we used a 3/8" drill bit).

Drilling the Bolt Hole

Drill a pilot hole in the legs and assemble using a socket wrench. Make sure that the joints are tight so the legs won’t wobble.

Note: If you prefer to have a fixed base, skip this step and bolt the legs together.

After you have assembled the back and the two sides, it’s time to attach the hinges. The hinges should be placed at the end of each cross brace and attached to the leg. Purchase the biggest and best quality hinges that you can find (that will fit).

Mortise the cross brace and the leg so that they receive the hinge. Don’t mount the hinges using the supplied screws. Instead use 2" – 3" decking screws. The longer length of these screws will improve their holding power. Make sure they aren’t longer that the width of the posts.

Note: We had to modify a hinge by grinding and drilling to make it fit our cross brace.

Introduction

Table Base <---- (You are Here!)

Table Top

Phenolic Insert

Finishing Touches

Table Fence

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